Warren County: Trails, Tales, and Paths Less Traveled

I begin with a quote from John Muir, "Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt." Words to live by and the reason why I chose to talk about our walkable Warren County. 

Warren County is one of 12 counties in the Pennsylvania Wilds, or the Pennsylvania Wilds Conservation Landscape. It is a predominantly rural and forested region in north central Pennsylvania, mostly within the Allegheny Plateau. The PA Wilds includes over 1,600 miles of hiking trails. It covers about a quarter of the state's territory but is home to only 4% of its population. PA Wilds is one of Pennsylvania's tourist regions designated by the state.

You cannot talk about Warren County without including the Allegheny River, which was recently named River of the Year 2024 by the Pennsylvania Organization for Watersheds and Rivers (POWR) in collaboration with the Department of Conservation and Natural Resources (DCNR). The Allegheny is 325 miles long and runs from its headwaters just below the middle of Pennsylvania's northern border, northwesterly into New York, then in a zigzag southwesterly across the border and through Western Pennsylvania to join the Monongahela River at the Fork in Pittsburgh.

Like so many in our county, I learned how to swim in the Allegheny at a very early age at my aunt and uncle's camp on Shippen's Eddy. I am very thankful for learning early in life to appreciate the river and the fun of canoeing, row boating, and swimming. We also experienced the impact that the construction of the Kinzua Dam had on the water level of the river as it relates to boating and swimming.

Along with my aunt and uncle's camp on the river, my family had a cabin in Hearts Content, located in Watson Township, where I also learned many forest-related life lessons. For example, never pick up what might look like a stick until closer inspection, as it might be a snake. Don't try to pet anything on four legs, even if it is cute and especially if it has a white stripe down its back. More importantly, I learned how to appreciate the forest. Walking to the fire tower was always a popular activity, along with hiking the trails through the virgin-growth forest in the picnic area across from the Hearts Content Campground. This is still a favorite Allegheny National Forest (ANF) trail that we visit often.

Kinzua Dam and the adjoining forest areas give access to the best natural resources we have that are not only a visually stunning display of nature, but also a resource for wellness. A walk along the sidewalk at the visitor's center just below the Kinzua Dam or for the adventuresome, a hike down along the Allegheny River can encourage even the less inclined to go out for a walk and breathe in the fresh air.

On more than one occasion, we have spotted eagles flying over the hillside, and on one trip, we watched a large adult male eagle fishing along the river. Raptors have amazing hunting skills, and this one was no exception. He dipped his talons into the water and came away with a fresh trout, which he took to the upper branches of a tree across the river from our vantage point and proceeded to eat his lunch. They have recently installed handicapped access to the eagle viewing platform that includes a new walkway for easy access.

We often take a picnic lunch to the lower visitor's center and find a comfortable bench along the river to relax and eat, and then hike the Smorgasbord Trail to the Kinzua Dam. Many local residents take advantage of the visitor’s center to take their daily walk, and now that they have added an updated roadway to the boat launch, better access is available for walking along the river pathway.

In addition to the Kinzua Dam and the visitor’s center, there are many hiking trails like Bent Run, Jake's Rocks, and of course, Rimrock. Several years ago, a trail was created that joins Rimrock to Kinzua Beach, and it is definitely a cardio workout. The Bent Run Trail, about a quarter mile from the dam, is a hike that will lead you along a trail of boulders, waterfalls, native trees, ferns, and amazing moss. Even though this is not an easy trail, I mention it because of the natural beauty found at this location.

Chapman State Park, or Chapman Dam as we locals call it, is located adjacent to state gamelands, and the ANF. It is just a few miles from Clarendon. Chapman is a quiet park, and you will never hear a motorized boat on the lake, just canoes and kayaks. Such an easy park for a walk as you follow the trail from the first parking lot to the beach area. Along the cement walkway, you will find a handicap-accessible pier that has benches, and who wants to miss that view of the lake? Following the walkway, you will encounter bullfrogs enjoying the sunshine in a small inlet. Eagle and Red-tailed hawk sightings are also common. Or sit at a picnic table under the umbrella of hemlock trees located along the way to the beach and take in the sounds of nature. This is a great park just to do mindful walking and reduce stress.

Betts Park trail – My personal favorite is the trail at Betts Park. The crushed limestone base makes for a soft trail that is easy on the legs and back. The trail is approximately 1 mile walking down and back. You can rest in the gazebo and watch the ducks and geese swimming in the river or the herons who love to wade close to the shore. Birds are in abundance all year round. The trail also includes many species of trees, shrubs, and native plants. I also recommend stopping at the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden for a quick tour of the pollinator garden, native plant beds, and the new raised planting beds. The raised beds include species of vegetable plants that are part of Penn State's Grow, Save, Repeat program. A new addition during the summer of 2023 was the Pickleball Courts located just before the boat launch. This is a multi-use park, and we are very fortunate to have it within the City of Warren.

Another location for mindful walking is the route to the Healing Garden. We often park our car at General Joseph Warren Park and head east to the Hickory Street Bridge and pick up the trail along the river. This crushed gravel trail begins at the end of the walkway from the bridge, along the river to Crescent Playground, and then winds its way to the Healing Garden. There are rest stops along the way, especially at the water fountain and the pavilion. Be sure to notice the variety of trees that are planted and marked along the way. To extend the walk, we often start at General Joseph Warren Park and walk over the Hickory Street Bridge, down St. Clair to the Healing Garden, and from there, back to GJWP. Great walk and a beautiful view of the river. Stop and read one of the many kiosks along the way.

We do enjoy our time spent in the ANF, but we also have found much to enjoy in the City of Warren. The city has developed a plan titled Walkable Warren. Walkable Warren takes you on a route throughout the city, and along the way, you will visit our many parks, large and small. Stop and read the kiosks located in the parks that provide interesting facts about our town’s history, its people, and what makes Warren…Warren. For the gardeners in the room, information on native trees and plants is also included at more than one stop.

I have only mentioned a few of the many walking and hiking trails in Warren County and would strongly encourage you to explore the possibilities by visiting the ANF building in North Warren.

Kiosks are now located in most parks, with new ones recently added to Clemons Park and Wetmore Park. The kiosk at Wetmore Park includes information about the mansions located on Market Street as well as the people who built and lived in them. For example, Wetmore Park is named after Thomas Wetmore, who also lived in the building that currently houses the Warren County Historical Society. Wetmore Park is also called Woodland Garden because of the many native species planted in the garden beds.

The benefits of walking are numerous! On a personal note, I have learned that walking for 30 minutes at least 3–4 times per week can:

• preserve mobility and independence
• positively impact longevity
• contribute to faster recovery from surgery
• balance energy intake
• prevent weight gain
• improve mood and reduce stress
• clear the mind and improve cognition
• reduce the risk of major depression

I will end with a quote from Hippocrates, who said, "Walking is man's best medicine." More recently, it has been described as a near-perfect physical activity.

Remember, if any of your beautiful walks around Warren County spark a horticultural question or two, our Master Gardeners are more than happy to help. Just email your questions to our Garden Hotline at warrenmg@psu.edu.

Happy trails!

Written by Kris Whitaker, Warren County Master Gardener.